Eater Deathwatch: Red Pearl Kitchen
Tuesday, August 28, 2007
The last time we did a Deathwatch, one offended reader called us the "bully kicking the handicapped kid at school." First, 'handicapped' isn't PC; it's 'disabled' or 'with disabilities' now. And that's fitting. Second, this isn't about kicking anyone when they're down; we don't condone the death, but we do watch the restaurant circle of life very closely. There's a fine line between the Deathwatch and a 1500-word review that leaves a restaurant limp with barely a half a star. We just call it like we see it. For an extra special bonus today: We're throwing you, the readers, the comments section. Comment away!
There's always someone who thinks their restaurant concept will break the rotation of a cursed spot. Tim and Liza Goodell's Red Pearl Kitchen is one of those ideas. The none-too-serious pan-Asian concept works for the couple in Huntington Beach and San Diego, but here, it seemed more a quick fix for the ailing Meson G on Melrose. We actually liked Meson G; it was well designed, Joseph Centeno was doing his thing, but something wasn't working. It lasted all of two years. Red Pearl Kitchen opened last fall, and probably won't last more than year. Maybe it's the location. This was home to Michel Richard's Citrus from 1986 to 2001, then Alex Scrimgeour opened Alex, which went away by 2004. Not that these were cursed restaurants, but each one lost stars and closed earlier than the one before it. We're still leafing through our Eater Deathwatch Manual sent from New York, but those are just a few sure signs of trouble.
Sitting in the shadow of the Mozza behemoth a block away can't be easy. A few weeks ago, the restaurant sent out a coupon for $20 off any meal for the month of August (good until Friday!). And then there are the Eater reader reports: "We stopped in a few weeks ago after a movie around 10 and got the look like please don’t come in and make us stay open for just you.....So we left." Sadly, it was the special surprise dumplings that clinched it this time. From the Tuna Toast blog: "That excitement quickly faded, however, after I took my first bite and realized that the filling completely mushy. Luckily, I took a look at the inside of my half-eaten pot stickers and figured out why- the ground chicken was raw. Yup. Raw chicken." Oooph. ETD: Thanksgiving.
This has got nothing to do with location -- look at the Mozzas across the street, thriving in the real estate equivalent of weed-choked asphalt. It's dying because Red Pearl wants to be an upscale P.F. Chang's, something that L.A. (happily) neither wants nor needs.
Alas we too have experienced a very lackluster occasion at Red Pearl. Basically things were just not happening for a restaurant that is supposed to be almost fine Hollywood dining. It seemed high on character and not high on actual food. While the descriptions sounded appetizing we felt robbed by the time we were done. Rices were on the bland side, the kobe beef plates we had brought to us had the bad kind of fat on it (not the oh so delicious fat we come to expect when ordering what is considered some of the best beef...maybe it was an American impostor) and while the place is absolutely got the right vibe to hang out at that's not really what you come there for. I wanted this place to work badly but it seems it has a lot of things to adjust if it wants to hang in there.
I suggest following Dominick's lead with a $15 three course Sunday supper w/ $10 sake bottle and $2 Asahi. A simple, effective and inexpensive way to draw the cash-conscious and style-obsessed Entourage casting pool http://weblogs.variety.com/theknife/2007/08/domincks-sunday.html who may in turn start including it in their repetoire of places to eat (read: be seen).
Although the last few regimes at that spot have been pretty dismal, the corner can hardly be called cursed: Citrus was one of the most successful, important restaurants of the 1980s, and had Michel Richard not gotten his customary seven-year itch, it would probably still be successful today.
Ergh. I've been complaining about this place for months now. It opened strong and then became a disaster with beyond lackluster service, too high prices and the food went completely downhill. I live only a block away, so its a shame. I hope something opens there that is actually good.
To be frank, this place has never NOT sucked. Too bad the editor of the LF Ledger was too preoccupied with making Hancock Park and the surrounding area happy.
I've only eaten here once, and the experience was good. Our waitress sort of blew, but luckily we had another waiter help us make some great choices off the menu. Like Strawberry Cinnamon Ribs, Thai Chili Glazed Calamari, Short Rib, Pumpkin and Massaman Curry, Garlic Cashew Chicken and the Pork-Shiitake Shu Mai. The food was good, nothing under cooked, but we never went back. Maybe that's a telling sign.
About Eater LA
Eater LA is a blog that covers the Los Angeles restaurant, bar and nightlife scene. From the newest hotspots to the historic rock clubs on the Strip, Eater LA has you covered. Read more about Eater LA...
Tipping Is Customary
Know about a restaurant opening or closing in your neighborhood, or other LA scene gossip? Let's hear it.
Full content feed
