Week In Reviews: Abode, Bar-B-Kosher, Off Vine, Intelligentsia and MORE
Wednesday, September 19, 2007
It's rare to see S. Irene Virbila on the attack. Last week, she gave Ca 'Brea half a star, but the review felt more "We don't like it, but obviously others do, so there you go." Sometimes if the Critic's Notebook is really negative, we never see a full review. This week it's as if the critic couldn't wait to get her hands on Abode in Santa Monica, and she goes straight for the jugular. By proposing a hypothetical---Abode = romantic restaurant---she took it to task for not being romantic at all, then proceeded to trash just about every dish chef Dominique Crenn and her kitchen puts out.
After several meals at Abode, I can't help but feel the kitchen has taken a wrong turn somewhere. The cooks are spending too much time on arts and crafts projects -- painting the sauces, primping the ingredients, whipping up those foams -- and not enough on considering how the food tastes to a hapless diner. Crenn is not alone in this. Many chefs want to be fashionable; some become fashion victims.
By the by, she hates the design, too, peppering her review with undiluted snark (the tables are "coy," the chandelier looks like "an insect"). Nothing but negative was expected from the LAT especially after Leslie Brenner's Critic's Notebook, but the idea that Abode is a romantic spot seems out of thin air. Still, it's why Miss Irene thinks it fails---who wants fussy when you want romantic? There was little Crenn and Abode could to to please the critic: It gets half a star. Today the "S." stands for "scathing." [LAT]
My husband and I eat out almost every night. Abode was one of the worst meals of our life. Even after sending things back, they were not improved upon. To be fair we went there the second week they had opened, but you couldn't pay me to go back. (We had a good meal at Rustic Canyon on their first night of business, though we've found RC to be very inconsistent) The waiter at Abode tried to upsell everything--I've never had such a used car salesman in a restaurant ever. Don't say yes to that glass of champagne they offer you on arrival--you will get charged $22!!!
I've had nothing but great meals at Abode (and I, too, eat out pretty much every night) and have been back many times since my first visit one week into its opening (following a letdown of a dinner at Michaels a few nights prior.)
It's a refreshing change to the current restaurant scene in Venice/Santa Monica/Malibu with more adventurous cooking. I have to agree with EaterLA that Irene's review is scathing and all based on a presupposition she has based her review on. If you stack restaurants by her "star" ratings located near by, it seems very inconsistent to give 1/2 a star.
As for Rustic Canyon -- 3 times, all disappointing.
Abode is a great place for foodies .we ate there many times and love Chef Crenn 's cooking .She is an amazing chef and a really nice one.
Irene ,a food Critic???please !!! don't we all know that she doesn't know shit about food..it is all political and it is sad .
you're late to the party Sean. As of 1:25p it was spelled "Intelligensia". No way of confirming now that it's been corrected, unless LB is checking every post and cares to comment.
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