Everyone's talking pizza this week, especially with Joe's operating full-steam in Santa Monica. Naturally, Jonathan Gold elevates the debate:

Joe's: "Joe’s basic cheese slice, ballasted with sweetish tomato sauce and annealed with a microthin cincture of cheese, is as authentically New York City as the smell of the West Fourth subway station in mid-August. When it’s available, the slice with juicy, fresh mozzarella is actually better than it is at the Village original, where the cheese is blasted into flat, white ovals, and the Sicilian slice, like oily foccacia glazed with tomato sauce and cheese, is first rate."

Vito's: "But Vito’s crust has a spring, a bounciness under the crunch that is just a tick more interesting than the texture of the slice across town, and the toppings are a bit more involved. Does it blow my credibility if I admit my affection for the slice with pesto and gobs of fresh ricotta? Perhaps so. But I will defend that affection to my death.
· NYC-Style Pizzaiolos Rated, Slice Against Slice [LA Weekly]

Filed under The Critics: On the Page,

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