Week in Reviews: Wilshire Triples, The Waffle, Goat and More Elsewhere
Wednesday, March 19, 2008

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The headline for today's LAT review is somewhat confusing: "Wilshire restaurant reinvents itself as a serious dining destination." Chef Christopher Blobaum was nothing if not serious, which might have been the problem; he left in February after his and the owner's vision no longer meshed, and chef de cusine Andrew Kirschner took over, starting his menu this month. Somewhere between then and now, S. Irene Virbila finds Wilshire finally hitting its stride.

Come warm weather, this is going to be the place to be. And just in time. With tensions easing, Wilshire is less dysfunctional. Kirschner's assured, effortless-seeming cooking is a breath of fresh air. He's blessed with not only a good palate, but also a good eye. And he can execute, which makes him a triple threat.

The restaurant is more than two years old, and the nightlife vibe it had in the beginning has softened. No matter how good a chef or service is, when Miss Irene starts a review complaining about scantily clad women and being seated in "Siberia," as she did with the 2005 review, a restaurant really has to work to redeem itself. And Wilshire has: It gets an extra star taking it to three, something we haven't seen in these parts for awhile. Today the "S." stands for "shake up." [LAT]

ELSEWHERE: A first look at Steven Arroyo's Goat; a photographic look at Richie's pizzas; Auntie Em's market dinner, day 2; why the Chateau Marmont always pleases; third time is a charm for Coupa Café; why Barney's Beanery on the Promenade should be avoided; still waffling on The Waffle; and something for everyone at The Oinkster.

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