Jonathan Gold just can't keep it a secret any longer: "I confess: I’m kind of crushed out on La Mill. I know the coffee shrine is more bourgeois than a lot of Silverlakistas might prefer, and although Adrian Vasquez’s croissants are beyond excellent, for a lot of people they don’t come close to compensating for the (unrelated) loss of the Back Door Bakery up the block. The staff of the Michaelangelo restaurant across the street sometimes glare at the Bugaboo-pushing, Pilates-toned, Prius-driving La Mill customers as if they alone were responsible for the boutiquing of the neighborhood, and as I finish off the last bites of a Tasmanian-char carpaccio or a $12 ham-and-cheese sandwich, I have to concede that they may have a point...But the food, molecular-gastronomy-tinged stuff designed by Providence chef Michael Cimarusti, is easily the most exciting cooking at this price point in Los Angeles." [LAW]

Filed under Quicklink, The Critics: On The Page

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