Eater's Journal: Wolfgang's, Beso, La Grande Orange, Hungry Cat, MORE
Friday, June 6, 2008


Here we have a new installment of Eater's Journal, wherein we discuss some of our recent meals because, hey, we eat too. These are just snapshots from individual meals in the month of May; in no way are these multi-visit full-on reviews.

Wolfgang's Steakhouse (5/1): Opening night, packed. Lights way too bright, server told us they couldn't find the dimmer. The douchebag next to us with tie thrown over shoulder, drinking a martini, explaining to non-NY natives that Wolfgang's is the best in NY. Stale onion rolls in the bread basket, martini not cold enough, wines by the glass pedestrian and over priced. Lots of servers/busboys some in from NY, some being trained, fast-paced, brusque. Porterhouse for two could feed three, hot sizzling on a plate, lots of juice and grease spattering. Good flavor but missing the char. German potatoes like diner homefries, creamed spinach nice. Junior's cheesecake delicious. Chance we'll go back: If someone else paid.

Beso (5/15): 1000% better than first visit, except that they lost the reservation. The mezzanine booths can either be VIP or Siberia, depending on if any VIPs are actually sitting there. Service still a bit scattered, but better. Yellowtail crudo with coconut milk and strawberries just odd, tortilla soup in ridiculously oversized bowl tastes like enchilada sauce, puffy onion ring dough a little raw. Steaks cooked nicely, fries and paella delicious. Many improvements. Chance we'll go back: If a visitor wants to see Eva Longoria Parker.

La Grande Orange (5/17): Spontaneous walk-in at the tail end of early bird. Seated immediately. As the gray hairs and families filtered out, a mix of youger couples and friends filtered in. Suburban. Gorgeous room. Cheerful "Hello, my name is…" servers who say "awesome" a lot. Hearty food, great burger, good fries, fried chicken piled high with gravy mashed potatoes. Not expensive, a bonus. Glad it's not on Colorado. Chances we'll go back: Yes, and that wine bar looks nice.

Pizzeria Mozza (5/20): Haven't been to the pizzeria in awhile. Still totally rockin'. Service is what it needs to be. Squash blossoms, arancini, clam pizza, guanciale pizza, another pizza we can't remember, crispy duck with lentils, butterscotch budino, rosemary-pignoli cookies, bottle of Bastianich rose. Chance we'll go back: Always, with extra pizza for home.

One Pico at Shutters (5/23): Newly renovated, the room looks like Catch at Casa del Mar across the street, also kind of beachy white and blue, seafood focus. Why not capitalize on the two sister properties and make one seafood one something else, perhaps a steakhouse? Service is fine, hotel corporate. Mostly tourists/hotel guests dining. The food isn't groundbreaking but very nice; definitely stick with seafood. The view tops it all. Chance we'll go back: Maybe, but still prefer the lobby bar for sunset drinks.

Hungry Cat (5/28): Last-minute pop-in for apps before drinks down the street. Not crazy full, lots of bar seats available. Bourbon tangerine smash cocktails, Fanny Bay oysters on the half shell perfect. Fresh sea urchin on special, still in the shell, first time scooping it out ourselves. Cracker accompaniment kind of a joke though. Raw blue prawns with pickled onions and sambal nice, shrimps are sticky. Service efficient. In and out. Chance we'll go back: Of course.

Charlie Palmer at Bloomingdale's (5/30): Opening night, staff completely on top of it without being overzealous. Only one was flaky, but earnest. Bafferts gin cocktail with a splash of lemonade and soda could easily be this summer's cocktail. Charcuterie platter perfect for three, all meats (pate, chorizo, summer sausage, etc.) made in-house, crispy pork belly, tortellini with sweet pea sauce, all freakin' delcious. Steaks and seafood menu, sides a la carte. Everything cooked perfectly: Lamb loin med rare, well-seasoned; filet with blue cheese crust; NY strip. Sides: faro risotto with morels, criminis with oxtail ragout. Fries going to all the other tables…wish we ordered those instead of the potato gratin. Electronic wine list fun to look at for about one minute. Chance we'll go back: As long as it isn't rush hour.


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