LA Weekly published one of Jonathan Gold's columns a few days early probably because the dining event, Crudobar at Breadbar in Century City, ends this week. When BB on Third Street hosted Ludovic Lefebvre's Ludobites last year, it was a treat. A snippet of why Gold thinks this also is one not to miss:
Sugie’s brand of fusion is subtle and sophisticated, from an aesthetic probably more influenced by French dudes like Alain Ducasse and Joël Robuchon than by the big flavors of local hero Nobu Matsuhisa. In a dish of raw scallops, bits of black seaweed provide the appearance, cauliflower crumbs the texture and truffle salt the flavor of fresh black truffles — an amazing feat of culinary trompe l’oeil. Raw sweet shrimp appear in a bowl of dashi manipulated to resemble a classic trembly-soft gelee. Crunchy slivers of the clam called mirugai bob with cucumber, boba pearls and shreds of baby coconut, textures rhyming, in a mildly citric broth...
Noriyuki Sugie was chef at Tetsuya, often considered the best restaurant in Sydney, and at Asiate in Manhattan. Crudobar ends this Thursday, May 15. Need more incentive: A sample menu. Hurry.
· Noriyuki Sugie guest stars at Breadbar [LA Weekly]
ECHO PARK: A tipster emailed that Mitchell Frank's (Echo co-owner) wine bar in the former El Prado space (1805 W Sunset Blvd) opened last Friday night; another went by and saw lights on yesterday. With the gate pulled during the day and no one answering the phone, we don't really know if it's open, if the name has changed, or if there's wine to be sipped, but anything's possible. [EaterWire]
DOWNTOWN: While his brothers Tanino and Giacomino are busy readying their new Beverly Hills restaurant Gitano, Celestino Drago is working his new project---Drago Centro, scheduled to open between the two Arco towers at City National Plaza in September. [EaterWire]
Last week we established that the Westfield Century City mall has quickly become a testing ground for new restaurant concepts, especially those of the Asian persuasion: Dumpling newcomer Take a Bao and the Cheesecake Factory's pan-Asian offshoot RockSugar are both looking to open this summer. Thanks to one faithful reader, we now have snaps of the construction site. Plus bonus renderings! A RockSugar rep says you'll be able to see the dining room from blocks away because of those 35-foot windows, and she shared a few more facts: Combined, the interior and patio measures almost 10,000 square feet, the design was in-house, and although we assumed this would be a new chain for the company, they have no plans to duplicate at this time "but that could change." We also learn that Singapore-raised executive chef Mohan Ismail trained at Kalustyan's Cafe, Blue Hill and Spice Market in New York, but finds inspiration from family meals for the menu. Opening date: June 19.
· New Asian Concepts Launch in Century City: Take a Bao, RockSugar [~ELA~]
Welcome to a new weekend feature, Week in Eater, where we divulge the best stories of the week that was. This is a special Sunday edition, but look for us on Saturdays from now on.
The Westfield Century City mall is the new Asian food testing ground for Los Angeles. Ok, that's a stretch, but two groups are using the mall as a launching pad for new pan-Asian and dim sum concepts this summer. First up: Take a Bao. The above snap was sent to us by a local agency worker dying for something more than Panda Express and California Crisp, begging us to find out more. Here's what we know: The tagline is "reinventing Asian cuisine," which is what founder Brent Stein and chef Christian Lomas (former exec chef of AZ in New York) hopes to do with their take on the traditional steam bun. Stein says these will be more like David Chang's creations at Momofuku in New York than what you see on dim sum carts in San Gabriel Valley: the dough will be thinner, filled with things like pomegranate skirt steak or crispy fish; they'll be folded over and kind of flat, "like an Asian sandwich." Take a Bao's menu will also offer sides, salads and noodle dishes to mix-and-match. The space is designed by architecture firm Johnston Marklee, who also did the Hungry Cat. Stein has some heavy hitters on his team, too: Bob Spivak, founder of the Grill on the Alley and Grill Concepts, and his restaurant consultant business partner, Chuck Frank are partners. They're aiming for a mid-June launch.
It's confirmed: Annie Miller and the Clementine crew have completely gone off their rockers. For grilled cheese. Because April is Grilled Cheese Month, they've copied a voter's sample ballot and in painstakingly great detail changed all the graphics, instructions (in multiple languages), measures, confusing explanations, amendments and bill of rights to reference grilled cheese and other cheesisms. We're particularly fond of Partisan Cheese Measure number 24a:
RATIFICATION OF THE DEFENSE OF GRILLED CHEESE SANDWICH ACT. A “Yes” vote amends the U.S. Grilled Cheese Code to make explicit what has been understood under federal grilled cheese law for over 200 years; that a grilled cheese sandwich is the union of two slices of bread with cheese. Requires that cheese melted on one slice of bread be designated as “open-faced grilled cheese,” and such designation may not include any use of, or reference to, the word “sandwich.”
Every week, in the Grilled Cheese Primaries, there will be five different grilled cheese specialties; whichever one is "voted for" (has the most sales), will go to the final Super Cheese Days (April 28-30). The winner will be the next "Commander in Cheese," and all can be tracked on MeltTheVote.org. This is all so ridiculous and clever it far surpassed being too clever.
· Melt the Vote: Clementine 2008 [MeltTheVote]
Not that Craft needed the publicity or anything, but Tom Colicchio's CAA-adjacent restaurant would've had a world-wide stage hosting the Vanity Fair Oscar Party in a few weeks. The magazine picked Craft as the new venue after Morton's, where the party was held for the last 14 years, shuttered last year. A fitting swap, considering it's become the Industry's new power lunch/dinner spot, but because of the writers' strike, the magazine pulled the plug on the party altogehter. A VF spokesperson told Variety:
"Even though the strike might end, that doesn't necessarily mean things are going to return to normal immediately," she said. "It's been a bad couple of months for a lot of different people, and it didn't seem like the appropriate time to throw a big party."
CENTURY CITY: Today, the newish Japanese restaurant Kula started lunch service. The restaurant opened in the Aphrodisiac space at the end of November, and kinks are getting worked out, the staff's feet are appropriately wet, and the owners, well, they're starting to understand what it is Angelenos want: Prices are about be slashed considerably. Whether it's the writer's strike or just a bad economy, you decide. [EaterWire]
DOWNTOWN: On the flip side, Fred Eric's lunch-only Tiara Café will start serving dinner this Friday, January 11. Weekends only (Fri-Sun) until Valentine's Day, when it goes to dinner five days a week. Chances are good some special pork dish will be offered. [Angelenic]
Kula opened softly at the end of November, taking over the former Aphrodisiac in Century City. The owners were pretty on target with the dates, too; apparently they have more than 180 restaurants in Japan (we have no idea what they are), so dealing with the city of Los Angeles was a breeze. The space is quite large---the lounge is filled with ottomans and TVs showing Japanese films, the sunken dining room and several private areas showcase Japanese art. Low banquettes, high-backed chairs, slate floor. Streamlined. According to the website, the menu is a mix of "authentic sushi and contemporary izakaya," so small plates, and touts fresh and organic, no preservatives or additives, with fish flown in from Japan as well as use of lcoal ingredients. For more reading, some early breadcrumbs here and here.
Kula Sushi Bistro Sushi, small plates, organic "when possible"
10351 Santa Monica Blvd, Century City, 310.282.8870
Valet: $5 Dinner nightly
More Dish because it's restaurant opening season. See something debut in your neighborhood? We're all ears. Alen Lin, 11/28/07
DOWNTOWN: Finally, after allthedelays, Mode opened at 11am today. And according to owner Tony Jones, it will never close. 24/7 from here on out. Angelenic got a taste last night, but it didn't sound very representative of the Eric Ernest Frenchified menu in store. [916 S. Olive St., 213.627.4888]
DOWNTOWN: The Vietnamese Blossom Restaurant expanded this week. The huge windows give it an Edward Hopper Nighthawks effect, says blogdowntown. [426 S. Main St., 213.623.1973]
The trickle down effect has begun. Today the Hollywood Writers Strike officially started and at least one restuarant has slashed prices to keep what little business they expect to have over the next few weeks/months. As of today, La Cachette in Century City now offers free valet Mon-Fri during lunch. And yes, there's a press release about it:
“We’ve been here for 13 years and a great many of our clients are in the entertainment industry. We know that the strike will hurt many people, not just the Writers. We want to let our clients know we are thinking of them. Even though our valet parking fee was only $5.50, we know that during tough times that can be tough to swallow. We hope this small gesture helps take some of the sting out of the strike.”
Surely more will find a way to capitalize on the strike. Come across any "Writers Strike" restaurant deals? Did you finally score a seat at Insomnia Cafe because the table hogs are out picketing? Drop us a line as a customer, a restaurateur or just an observant strikewatcher.
· How Will the Writers Strike Affect Restaurants? [~ELA~]
Not a full Eater's Journal, just some quick thoughts.
We had a lunch meeting at Breadbar in the Westfield Century City mall today (currently blogging from the Kelly's just down the way) and wanted to share a few quick thoughts. Haven't been to the original on 3rd Street yet, but this location gets props for the easy parking in the mall garage; quick, friendly and knowledgeable service; fresh salads (all three we tried were tasty), of course the bread, and probably the chocolate almond croissants we picked up for home. It wasn't super busy for lunch, at least by the time we arrived (1:30ish). Picked up the postcard for Ludobites at 3rd Street location and noted the December 21 end date for the Wed-Fri night dinners by Ludovic Lefebvre. Plenty of time to catch it before he moves on to whatever project he's on to next (something's definitely in the works). All in all, good experience.
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