We've never quite figured out why the chefs that beat Iron Chef America chefs aren't considered Iron Chefs, but just this once, let's say it's so: Providence chef/owner Michael Cimarusti, his sous Yu Min Lin and pastry chef Adrian Vasquez topped Morimoto last night on the Food Network. The secret ingredient was black fish, and Cimarusti and Co. worked that fish with aplomb. It was quite the treat watching the chefs and their knives, which seemed to especially impress Alton Brown. Congrats to Providence for such a strong showing. The ep reruns on July 10.
UPDATE: From the Providence newsletter that just hit the inbox: The restaurant will feature winning menu items from Battle Black Fish as specials throughout July. Now's the time to release your inner Jeffrey Steingarten.
When we saw Michael Cimarusti over the weekend, he excitedly reminded us that the first 5x5 Collective Dinner is less than two weeks away. Providence kicks things off on May 19, and there are only about 10 tables left (5:30 or 9pm, 9:30pm). This year the chefs---Cimarusti, Josiah Citrin, David Lefevre, Walter Manzke, Gino Angelini---changed it up by inviting some friends to join the fun. First up is Manresa's David Kinch, a 2008 James Beard nom for Best Chef of the West. One not to miss. The next dinner is in June at Bastide, but with all the chef shuffling going on there, plans might change; we'll know more soon. Manzke will still participate in the Providence dinner. Time to drool over the May 19 menu.
Overall consensus for last night's inaugural Chefs & Champagne event is that it didn't pack the wallop it deserved. The James Beard Foundation's annual Hampton's fete was brought west to honor and highlight LA's best chefs, and they were all there: Richard, Manzke, Myers, LeFevre, Cimarusti, Citrin, Greenspan, etc. Thing is, the JBF decided to honor Tom Colicchio, an East Coast transplant who's still considered an outsider no matter how loudly he yells "Go Lakers!" at the end of a speech. A solid but odd choice. The event still shuffled along and could have a bright future should it decide to come back. As is always the case, it's difficult to hit every table---one big gabfest, the crowd teeming with industry insiders (owners, writers, editors, publicists)---but here, some highlights and lowlights from the menu, rumor mill and more.
1) Ruffled Feathers: Local chefs were honored to be included in the event, respect Tom Colicchio as chef and restaurateur, but a general "WTF, why Colicchio" attitude wafted in the air like the scent of searing pork belly from the Spago table.
2) Three words: Suckling pig sliders. One of the best things we tasted all night. Handed a couple while standing in the Bastide garden as staffers poured delightful Champagne and pretended that everything's A-OK at the restaurant. We later heard otherwise.
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