S. Irene Virbila lets her age get the best of her—again. Kerry Simon's haute version of comfort food at Simon L.A. in the Sofitel seems to please her in every sense, even tugging at her inner child with the chef's versions of popcorn shrimp, cheeseburgers, milkshakes and peanut butter ice cream sundaes. But she can't help obsessing over young fashionistas weighed down with shopping-spree bags and the sounds of baubled bobble-heads making the rounds.
The execution of dishes could be more even, and for anybody other than a twentysomething who's not particularly interested in talking to his or her dining companions, the noise level is going to be an issue.
She gives Simon LA one-and-a-half stars. Today the "S" stands for "senior."
Simon L.A.: Kitschy-kitschy cool (LA Times)