We admit, we love reading Jonathan Gold's reviews in the LA Weekly, whether it's a random Szechuan spot in San Gabriel that we most likely won't find or whatever restaurant-of-the-moment everyone's talking about. This week, he reviews Cut, and there isn't one negative comment to be found. It was actually difficult cutting through the saliva to find one sentence that best sums up his absolute adoration for the modern-day steakhouse, the restaurant Esquire put at the top of its Best New Restaurants list, the place everyone can and wants to be seen (some get Reese, Renee and Bruce; we got Tom Arnold), but when he waxes poetic on real Japanese Kobe steak, it all makes sense:
If you happen to be at Cut, and you happen to have in front of you what would ordinarily be a perfectly splendid corn-fed Nebraska strip steak, aged 35 days, seared at 1,200 degrees, then finished over oak to a ruddy, juicy medium rare — or even an example of American wagyu rib eye — you would take one bite of your neighbor’s Japanese Kobe steak, cooked the same way, and look around for rocks to throw at your own hunk of meat.If Gold doled out stars, we think this one would go to 11.
Cut is to the other steak houses in town what Spago was to the pizza parlors back in 1981, the restaurant that defines Los Angeles at the moment, or at least Beverly Hills.
· Flesh and bone [LA Weekly]