We're loving Los Angeles Magazine finally getting online. If you haven't picked up the January issue yet, senior writer Dave Gardetta ducks into Spago for a little "Heat"-like view into the world of a working kitchen. And not just any kitchen, one that serves almost 400 guests a night. It's a fun read for anyone who doesn't know how a restaurant really works, that chefs can't read your mind (but they will read your scraps left on a plate), and how gastronomic inspiration often arises out of carrot monotony. When it comes to the well-oiled machine, our favorite bulldog of a chef, Spago and Cut's Lee Hefter, has no time to putz around.
“If there is a weak link one night,” Hefter says, “I’m going to delete it. I will tell a cook his service is shit, his food sucks, and get the fuck out.”His chefs must love the pain: Hefter supposedly sees very little turnover.
· The 800th Plate: The fine line between quantity and quality in Spago's kitchen [LA Magazine]
