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The Cooks, the Cliff, the Dinners at Spago

We're loving Los Angeles Magazine finally getting online. If you haven't picked up the January issue yet, senior writer Dave Gardetta ducks into Spago for a little "Heat"-like view into the world of a working kitchen. And not just any kitchen, one that serves almost 400 guests a night. It's a fun read for anyone who doesn't know how a restaurant really works, that chefs can't read your mind (but they will read your scraps left on a plate), and how gastronomic inspiration often arises out of carrot monotony. When it comes to the well-oiled machine, our favorite bulldog of a chef, Spago and Cut's Lee Hefter, has no time to putz around.

“If there is a weak link one night,” Hefter says, “I’m going to delete it. I will tell a cook his service is shit, his food sucks, and get the fuck out.”
His chefs must love the pain: Hefter supposedly sees very little turnover.
· The 800th Plate: The fine line between quantity and quality in Spago's kitchen [LA Magazine]