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WEEK IN REVIEWS

Jonathan Gold meanders through the soul-food-esqe menu at Larkin's in Eagle Rock and comes up with at least one must-have dish: The fried chicken."Larkin’s is a controversial place, distrusted by both people expecting a cheap, unreconstructed soul-food restaurant and snobs looking for refined haute cuisine, both hungry boys upset that the portions are less gargantuan than Roscoe’s and Southerners skeptical of the trace of fresh mint in the jelly jars of sweet tea. Larkin’s demands to be taken on its own terms..." [LA Weekly]

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