Globavore or Locavore

Jonathan Gold recounts how far we've come from "Rand McNally cuisine" via Grace. "The tooth-achingly rich Scottish hare served with a tiny, crisp blackberry pie; the giant, unctuous slab of braised rare-breed pork belly on black rice; the braised rabbit; the Angus beef tartare mounded atop a crouton that turned out to be a miniaturized grilled cheese sandwich saturated with truffles — all of it was classic Grace cooking, and California had almost nothing to do with it. Sometimes inspiration lies farther from home than we expect." [LA Weekly]