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Eater's Journal: Comme Ca

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We dine out as much as the next person, so we might as well muse on our recent findings. Here, then, Eater's Journal.


When it comes to Comme Ca, we admit, they had us at the oysters, cheese and steak tartare we had at the opening party. Here's what we know: Comme Ca is everything Sona isn't and everything a brasserie should be. It's stylish, sure, in a Restoration Hardware kind of way. It's bustling and loud, more so in the middle and back room than the front, and it will surely be too loud for some, but not a turn-off for us. It's lively and welcoming, all good things. Servers are still getting their bearings (there was a little "whose plate is this" at delivery), the wine list is still bulking up, but you can sense the earnestness in the room. These are people who know what they're doing, and they're getting more comfortable with timing and pacing each day. Comme Ca isn't the second coming, but it's damn good, and we're glad it's here. Let's put it this way: If Myers would've opened another high-end Japanese concept as he was rumored to do, we wouldn't be this interested. But after two dinners, both during opening week, we're already craving some dishes and can't wait to get back for others.

This is full-on classic French brasserie with robust food that's rustic and earthy, bold. The menu is fairly large, but the chefs are already doing so many things well. The steak frites isn't just a piece of steak and French fries; the steak is cooked perfectly medium rare, topped with an oozing mound of herb butter, the fries are crisp and light, totally addictive. We'll go back any time for the tarte flambée, the sweetbreads, the escargot with parsley butter and itsy bitsy little croutons that add just enough crunch, and the French onion soup. About that soup, forget everything you ever thought you knew about French onion soup, and go nowhere else when the craving strikes, trust us on this. We look forward to trying coq au vin, beef bourguignon, and the roast chicken for two, surprisingly. Not everything was perfect, but so so so close. Totally expected for a restaurant in its infancy, or at least easily looked over. We didn't feel gouged by the prices, spending about $80 per person each time.

There may be kinks (an overcooked pork chop, wines not chilled yet) but David Myers is there every night, and because this is food he loves to eat, what he loves to cook, he'll make it perfect. Watching Comme Ca progress over the next few months (and add breakfast and lunch) is an exciting prospect. Thank goodness for building permits and inspector delays: There's no better time for braised meats, French red wine, and rustic food than the winter. What they'll do when it gets to be 110 degrees again is another story.
· Hangover Observations: Comme Ca Opening Party [~ELA~]
· The Dish: Comme Ca Opens Tonight [~ELA~]