Week in Reviews: Comme Ca

Jonathan Gold gives props to Comme Ca's briny oysters, coq au vin, tarte flambe, French onion soup, and indeed the cheese selection and fromager. But it's the burger that really grips him: "I am an admirer of both the Orchestrated Crispness and Mannerist Condiment schools of cheeseburger construction, but Comme Ça’s burger is from an older tradition where ingredients are allowed to speak for themselves, unfussy hamburgers that taste like good aged meat." [LA Weekly]