Photo by Mysticonnie, Flickr
When someone spotted S. Irene Virbila at Lucques recently, we assumed that a new review was on its way. Thus, today, the critic revisits Suzanne Goin and Caroline Styne's almost 10-year-old venture and finds that it's as good as ever, if not better. Really, what do those Michelin inspectors know anyway?
Goin and her chef de cuisine, Rodolfo Aguado, rewrite the menu every few days, depending on what's in season. Right now, they're serving fabulous sweet Taylor Bay scallops in the shell with black rice and a nuanced Thai-style green curry. It's a beautiful dish, fragrant with coconut milk and very rich. That seems to be the way Goin has always liked her main courses. She's an eater and cooks for people who love to eat.We're dying to know what restaurant preceded her last dinner at Lucques, the one with a "pounding heavy-metal soundtrack," where she was "whacked by passing monolithic handbags." Then again, that can be about 10 places in LA right now. Lucques' continued civility, Goin's California seasonal fare with Mediterranean sensibility, and its knowing servers earn three stars this week. Today the "S." stands for "staple." [LAT]
ELSEWHERE: Steven Arroyo's new Cobras-adjacent wine bar, Sgt. Recruiter, is hitting the neighborhood's sweet spots; Delicious Life swoons over the grilled cheese---and the chance to see Govind Armstrong---at Table 8; crazy good sandwiches at the Artisan Cheese Gallery in the Valley; Caroline likes the new SM lounge Chloe; Angelenic visits the eclectic Casa de Sousa on Olvera Street.