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Week in Reviews: Bashan, Mode, Mes Amis and More

Bashan, Alen Lin, 9/16/07

S. Irene Virbila is quite enamored with chef Nadav Bashan and wife Romy who own and operate the tiny Bashan Restaurant in Glendale; one would have to be to continue to seek it out, given its just-shy-of-Montrose locale. The minimalist decor and the "green" staff is easily overlooked for what's on the plate:

Bashan has a light touch with sauces, and really thinks about how to garnish each dish. His cooking is more understated than showy. And he brings a broad palette of subtle flavors into focus with a sure-handed technique. He tends to slip in interesting veggies -- a blood-red Okinawan yam here, grilled scallions there as minor players, but the fish or meat is still the main event. You won't fill up on carbs here, or even many vegetables.
The restaurant improves on every visit, but in these early stages Bashan still gets two stars. Today the "S." stands for "solid showing." (Because the online version once again does not list the business info, please allow us.) [LAT]

ELSEWHERE: Caroline just not feeling Mode, totally into Taste; a first look at Mes Amis; lafoodblogging tastes Ortolan for the first time, actually enjoys the test tubes; separate crab feasts at Ondal 2 in Koreatown and Crablicious in Artesia; and finding Yucatecan cuisine at Casa Maya near Redlands.