There's something about Celadon's Galerie Culinaire worldly cuisine that we thought wouldn't work for S. Irene Virbila. Instead, she threw us for a loop and gave the new restaurant in the old Yi Cuisine space some praise. But then, there's always that one thing that gets her; just one little detail that can shave an entire star off the experience:
Israeli-born, Japan-raised and U.S.-trained, chef Danny Elmaleh knows a thing or two about fusion. Over several meals at Celadon, I've discovered the best strategy is to eat mezze-style. Cover the table with appetizers and nibble away. That's where Elmaleh shows his best stuff and where he breaks new ground with his very personal fusion.The "water torture" coupled with not-so-interesting entrees leaves Celadon at one-and-a-half stars and nothing more. [LAT]Service is generally good, except for the usual water torture. That would be when a server fills glasses to the brim, obviously hoping that a single bottle won't make it all the way around the table. You could easily end up with two waters at $7 each on your bill before you've ever taken a bite.
ELSEWHERE: Linda Burum tastes the mysterious Yucatan cooking at Chicken Itza. Eating L.A. gets one of the first pies at Il Capriccio Pizzeria. Schoolgirls squeal in delight over mochi gratin at Tokyo Table. Dining in a *cough* haze at Soot Bull Jeep. Double date nights at Opus. Ah, La Bodeguita de Pico fits like a...a vintage Adidas? Daikokuya ramen, the sake hangover cure. A cupcake showdown starts with Buttercake Bakery and SusieCakes.
