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Week in Reviews: The Beauty of Bivalves at Water Grill

There should be little wonder why Jonathan Gold won a Pultizer for food writing (the Weekly can't stop reminding us; then again, he is married to the editor). He writes with ease and gusto all at once, which is the way he eats:

I have judged tamale pageants and cioppino contests, salsa skirmishes and menudo competitions, pesto battles and the inevitable chili cook-offs, including one where I spent most of the event fearing both the possibility that I wouldn’t be able to spot the chili made from ground possum meat and the probability that I would. I once tasted 110 examples of kugel in a single afternoon.
This week Gold writes about judging white wines with briny oysters at Water Grill, and gives the list of winners. He makes it sound so easy, so inviting, so...filling.
· Shell Game: Water Grill chefs throw pearls before wine [LA Weekly]