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The Dish: LAMILL Percolates, Brews, Drips

We were initially told that LAMILL Coffee Boutique would open today at 6am. Not true: It opens at 9am and will stay open until 6pm. Same hours this weekend, with limited menus. It will probably be closed on Monday and possibly all Mondays going forward. On Tuesday, January 15, LAMILL opens 6am-9pm.

As far as coffee shops go, LAMILL isn't one. Owner Craig Min calls it a coffee boutique, we call it a coffee-infused restaurant. Let's start with the decor. Custom-made French wallpaper, faux crocodile, ostrich and sharkskin chairs in dark teal, sky blue and red, black Lucite tables. A dramatic brass chandelier hangs in the main room. Then there's the coffee: A one-of-a-kind espresso machine (a La Marzocco for you coffee geeks), a Clover, French press, and a bevy of other special ways to get your brew, plus baristas who actually know how to work all the machinery. Drinks like "coffee and cigarettes," which tastes exactly as it sounds (bitter and smoky; the whip is infused with tobaccy), and a menu by Providence's Michael Cimarusti and pastry chef Adrian Vasquez. Clam fritters, frisee au lardon with coffee-laced vinaigrette, pumpkin soup with coffee creme friache. The ginger scones we heard about: very good. The blueberry muffin: quite good. The passion fruit gelee with basil seeds: excellent. Starbucks can suck it.

Further reading: The first drips here, here and here, the newsletter brigade, and a video preview at Metromix.

Loving the wallpaper

Next door will eventually become a retail area, possibly by February. There are talks of a "barista table," like a chef's table, for coffee and multi-course dessert tastings.