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Jonathan Gold: Hunan Seafood

"Is there a contest for the best steamed fish head in the San Gabriel Valley? Because if there is, the example at the new Hunan Seafood might win the prize — a mammoth, silvery head, jaws agape, eyes frosted in death, a half-inch of chopped chiles troweled over the skull like a layer of Christmas-y scarlet-and-green asphalt. The fish head is borne to the table in a casserole the size of a hubcap, and the bottom inch or so is lapped by a pickle-tart broth." [LA Weekly]