Alen Lin, 9/29/07
S. Irene Virbila starts the year off with a one-star review of Michael Ovitz's Kumo for 2008, noting that it's really more about decor, the handsome actor/servers, the Japanese animation dancing on plasma screens above the sushi bar. But that only goes so far. If you're checking out Kumo for the food, you might be disappointed:
After you sample a few dishes, though, the thrill wears off. Nothing has much taste, and when it does, it's mostly the sweet sauces, not the ingredient or seafood itself. The one exception among the more than a dozen items I tried was the black cod served in a red wine miso sauce, but then black cod is naturally fatty, and that's where it gets its flavor. Which makes me wonder where the kitchen is buying the fish, because I've rarely had such tasteless sushi or other dishes at a high-end sushi restaurant. And Kumo is very high end.Miss Irene equates the whole ordeal with the Ivy, another restaurant for those who don't mind dropping a bundle for mediocre food only because it's the place to be. Today the "S." stands for "suckers." [LAT]
Not a lot ELSEWHERE because of the holidays, but a few: New Year's uni at the newly expanded Hungry Cat; spicy hot fun at Hunan Seafood Restaurant in the SGV; and finding the same waits and dumplings at the new Din Tai Fung in Arcadia, nicer service.