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Akwa Out, Wokcano In

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The last time we even thought about Akwa was when we met Michelin director Jean-Luc Naret a few months ago. We told him that if being listed in the guide was "an award" in itself, then a place like Akwa shouldn't be featured. We haven't been since it took opened when the same owner closed Union in 2004, but we received many tips that although the patio was still lovely, the restaurant was empty on recent weekend nights, the food wasn't stellar (decent sushi), and service was poor. And then there was the whole business of someone sleeping on a banquette. This was a restaurant destined for the Deathwatch, we said. It wouldn't be around in six months. Sure enough: Akwa will close this Saturday. Incoming is another Wokcano, the fifth for the LA area.

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