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Week in Reviews: Terroni Gets a Star, LA Mill, Let's Be Frank, Monsieur Marcel and MORE

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Alen Lin, 11/20/07

S. Irene Virbila revisitis Shereen Arazm's Toronto-import Terroni, the unpretentious Italian joint that's been bustling on Beverly Boulevard near the Grove since November. The sound level is maddening (natch), she knows someone who took their own pizza cutter (!), but the vibe fits the fashionably untucked crowd. The menu, it's not perfect:

Overall, the cooking could use more polish. Especially the main courses. Thinly sliced beef tenderloin comes in a syrupy balsamic reduction that cloys after the first bite. Deep fried breaded lamb chops are pretty tasteless (and after those zucchini blossoms, I have to say frying is not the kitchen's strong suit). Grilled sausage with rapini and grilled polenta is a massive portion, yet no one at my table wants it, it looks so unappetizing. No wonder that all around me, I see people chowing down on the pasta and pizza instead, giddy at the generous portions and the moderate prices.
It's charming, fun, boho, hip, exactly what it needs to be for the neighborhood, and for that, Terroni gets one star. Today the "S." stands for "spunky." [LAT]

ELSEWHERE around the blogosphere: Jeni gets what LA Mill is all about, plus falls off the caffeine wagon at Intelligentsia; Jonah has good food, bad service at Literati 2; finally discovering Wilson in Culver City, but leaving unimpressed; delicious hot dogs found at the Let's Be Frank cart; and the new Monsieur Marcel doesn't use the bounty of the adjacent SM farmer's market.