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Gold on Gourmet

As promised, Jonathan Gold's new column launched on today. First up, fish market travels in Seoul: "Koreans favor species toward the bottom rungs of the food chain, so while you will see the occasional bluefin or salmon at Noryangjin, they are far outnumbered by croaker and corvina, bubbling clams and giant octopus whose arms extend farther than Shaquille O’Neal’s." [Gourmet; previously]