Week in Reviews

Jonathan Gold thinks Church & State is good enough for what (French brasserie) and where (Arts District) it is, which is basically the signature style of owner Steven Arroyo: "Arroyo, of course, is L.A.’s master of the adequate: restaurants that are just fun enough to draw us in, with food just good enough to temper the opinions of Yelpers, Chowhounds and the food press...Like art-world restaurants everywhere, Church & State thrives less on the magnificence of its cooking than it does on its off-skew vibe — and at prices that assume that your gallery owner is going to be picking up the bill...it is almost certain that if the Church & State brasserie concept doesn’t work, the space will be transformed into — well, probably another Cobras & Matadors." [LAW]