With its wood-slat ceiling and brick floors, the first thing out of most people's mouths when it comes to Gjelina is "it's loud." It's the one thing that Miss Irene didn't like about it in her recent two-and-a-half star review, but with no sound absorption and the crowds that flock there, it really is a noisy one. But it sure is purty. A long banquette on one side of the room and communal tables in the middle, a funky little patio with a view into the kitchen out back, the look fits the neighborhood and the neighborhood loves it. Chef Travis Lett's (Tengu, Nine Thirty) menu veers seasonal with charcuterie and cheese; wood-oven pizzas topped with things like bitter greens, bacon, fontina and tomato confit; squid with peppers, fingerlings and chimichurri; grilled loup de mer. They like their Old World-style wines here but should keep the racy Melville just because.