Photo by Alen Lin 5/08
Off the bat, S. Irene Virbila leads with the fact that Sang Yoon does not allow ketchup at either of his Father's Office locations, pretty much setting the tone with how she feels about FO II at the Helms Bakery: A lingering annoyance with those things that make FO, FO---order at the bar, find a table, no subsitutions---but it's all still kind of brilliant because the food is worthy, the beer list great, and Yoon is making money hand over fist. But about that signature burger:
I'm not the biggest fan of that burger. It's more like a beef patty sandwich. The beef is nice and juicy, but the bun is more like a sandwich bun than a classic burger bun, and spongy to boot. I don't like the sweetness (and sliminess) of the caramelized onions or the embellishment of the blue cheese. No lettuce, no mustard, too rich -- and greasy. But I'm definitely in the minority. Fortunately, that's not all there is to eat.The specials, she says; it's all about the specials. While Yoon will be the first to say Father's Office is not a restaurant, Miss Irene insists it is and gives it one-and-a-half-stars, even without table service. Today the "S." stands for "his Sangness." [LAT]
ELSEWHERE: Diglounge hits those pork-fat fries at Laurel Tavern; LAfoodblogging tries the "ima" at Fulfilled; Metromix pokes around Rama Thai; over at the Times, The Guide takes a first look at the beaming beacon Desert Rose, and Linda Burum finds inexpensive Indian at Copper Chimney in Woodland Hills; Ritz Bites gets back to basics at Taylor's; A Hamburger Today revisits Cassell's; and Caroline on Crack and others hit the secret beef Totoraku experience.