Can tacos get two stars? Sure, why not. As others have done, Patric Kuh waxes poetic about Jimmy Shaw's Loteria Grill in Hollywood in the December issue of Los Angeles magazine. An excerpt (not online): "In the best Mexican food, seasonings build on one another. There is a constant interplay between the depth of flavor that comes with long cooking times and the brightness lent by herbs and the zing of chile heat. Shaw, who often works behind the counter in a short-sleeved chef’s jacket, is a master of this fundamental exchange. Many of the dishes are defined by the contrast of patient simmering and fresh salsas...The stewed chicken of the tinga de pollo, the tender carne deshebrada, the slow-cooked pork of the cochinita pibil—all have a lush, saturated quality." [LA Mag]
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