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Chef's Burgers

The local stringer for A Hamburger Today has an issue with some celebrity chefs doing burgers and takes up Govind Armstrong's 8 oz: "Certainly great chefs can make great burgers (Shake Shack, anyone?). In the case of 8 oz., the devil seems to be in the too many details. You can imagine Armstrong initiating the creation of his burger with such careful obsessiveness that what came to me a morass of toppings becomes–in his hands–a balanced and tasty creation. The problem is we don't usually get the chef's hands on the meal we're served. What we need–and what seems to be lacking in 8 oz.'s execution–is the chef's fingerprints (even when he's not around). " [AHT]

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