Week in Reviews: Park's Barbecue

Jonathan Gold checks out the newish Park's Barbecue in Koreatown, everything a Korean barbecue junkie could ask for and then some: "The waiter comes over, rubs the hot grill with a lump of beef suet. He flinches back as the melted fat explodes into a rush of blue flame. He lays meat on the grill as tenderly as you might put a kitten to bed, which almost makes sense — at more than $30 for an order of sliced Kobe-style beef and near that for short ribs, prime bulgogi or pork, this is the most expensive Korean barbecue in town. The unmarinated Kobe has already started to brown and curl. Even wrapped into a lettuce leaf with bean paste, half a raw garlic clove and a bit of coarse salt, if that's how you like it, the supremely beefy flavor comes through." [LA Weekly]