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Week in Reviews: The New Du-Par's

Jonathan Gold was worried when the Naylor family took over and revamped various Du-Par's around town, but found all his favorites still there, some better than before. With one exception: "The French toast, the opposite of the soft, puddingy Du-par's classic, is of the egg-dipped-and-fried school, fringed with crisp bits, served with pots of melted butter and shrieking the virtues of good-quality bread — it comes across more like the outside of a Monte Cristo than it does like French toast. It is a tragedy unmitigated by the availability of banana cream pie." [LA Weekly]

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