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Gonpachi Tries Again

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It's official: Katsuo Nagasawa is the new exec chef of Gonpachi in Beverly Hills. It wasn't long ago that the owners cleaned house after poor reviews and lagging business. "Naga" is best known for opening Cafe del Rey in the '80s, so he brings a certain fusion aesthetic hopefully adjusted for the new millennium. Anything's better than the potato and cheese croquettes topped with bonito flakes: Naga's menu (Caesar with spicy caviar and tofu croutons, spinach salad with spicy sardines and fried fennel, filet with wasabi mashed potatoes) is probably better suited to "Restaurant Row" tourists and/or Angelenos' palates. The soba and sushi chefs are still there. [EaterWire]