Week in Reviews: BLT Steak

The New York imports just aren't impressing Jonathan Gold, especially BLT Steak: "Tourondel is one of the best chefs of his generation...But the ability to run one brilliant restaurant is different from the ability to run 20 brilliant restaurants. And the strength of the first BLT Steak, the elevation of steak-house cuisine to a refined level, seems to have become a weakness — there is no way steak-house cooks can consistently execute a menu of BLT Steak’s complexity, and even where the restaurant should excel, at least after its first few weeks, it tends not to. [LAW]