Delancey Revealed, Opens Tonight

As opposed to the New York joints replicating across LA, George Abou-Daoud creates his version of New York for LA. Delancey is his second venture in a long line of plans, and it finally opens to the public tonight. Part of what we call the the Delancey Compound, the space, with its pressed-tin ceilings, dark wood floors, brick arches, leather booths and bistro tables, shows nothing of its former self. He calls it an "Italian gastropub" with an East Coast vibe, meaning it's the same kind of service as his other place, the Bowery, a few blocks away (no reservations or hostess, but table service), and a menu full of classics like spaghetti and meatballs, chicken parm, zeppole, and, as we tasted at a preview party last night, some excellent homemade cannoli. The chef gets a little fancy with dishes like speck with quail egg and tallegio cheese, homemade pastas, and filet mignon with procini butter, but only one passes the $20 mark. In the bar, there are even more spirits than the Bowery, 20 beers on tap, great wines by the glass. It might not be the old neighborhood, but once Abou-Daoud's done with Hollywood, it will certainly be a neighborhood.