LA Weekly published one of Jonathan Gold's columns a few days early probably because the dining event, Crudobar at Breadbar in Century City, ends this week. When BB on Third Street hosted Ludovic Lefebvre's Ludobites last year, it was a treat. A snippet of why Gold thinks this also is one not to miss:
Sugie’s brand of fusion is subtle and sophisticated, from an aesthetic probably more influenced by French dudes like Alain Ducasse and Joël Robuchon than by the big flavors of local hero Nobu Matsuhisa. In a dish of raw scallops, bits of black seaweed provide the appearance, cauliflower crumbs the texture and truffle salt the flavor of fresh black truffles — an amazing feat of culinary trompe l’oeil. Raw sweet shrimp appear in a bowl of dashi manipulated to resemble a classic trembly-soft gelee. Crunchy slivers of the clam called mirugai bob with cucumber, boba pearls and shreds of baby coconut, textures rhyming, in a mildly citric broth...Noriyuki Sugie was chef at Tetsuya, often considered the best restaurant in Sydney, and at Asiate in Manhattan. Crudobar ends this Thursday, May 15. Need more incentive: A sample menu. Hurry.
· Noriyuki Sugie guest stars at Breadbar [LA Weekly]