Octavia Becerra seems to have won over Jonathan Gold with Palate Food + Wine: "Becerra’s food is informed by the latest techniques but appears to be deceptively simple: Rare slices of rib steak, for example, are coaxed to impossible juiciness, probably using the French vacuum-cooking method sous vide....A chicken breast, cooked for many hours at ultralow temperatures, still firm but bursting with flavor, is served under a sheet of what amounts to chicken-skin chicharrones—this may be the first chicken breast in history that I have preferred to pork belly, and the crisp, meltingly rich pork belly was damned good." [LA Weekly]
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