Week in Reviews: Gus's, Anisette, The Park, Palate, More

Photo by 5/08

S. Irene Virbila ventures into South Pasadena for big ribs and burgers at the newly renovated Gus's Barbecue. Not even open two months (isn't there a critic's rule about that?), under the Bicos brothers, she finds the space, menu and vibe better than it was. Then again, sometimes a 60-plus-year-old needs a sprucing up.

I know people who have been back twice in the same week for the baby back ribs --and we're not talking puny half slabs, but the full deal, at least a foot long, lean and meaty, basted to a dark mahogany with Gus's secret sauce. The cole slaw is crisp and not too sweet, the red-skinned potato salad fresh and creamy. There's nothing nouvelle about the food. It's just good American comfort fare in generous portions, at moderate prices.

ELSEWHERE: Miss Irene goes Eastside boho in Echo Park at The Park, 15, and El Prado; plus, hipsters on their best behavior at The Park; early reports for Anisette: very good but not mind-blowing, still getting its feet wet; another thumbs up for Palate in Glendale; loading up on post-run carbs at 3 Square Cafe.