This week, S. Irene Virbila checks out the venerable Taverna Tony in Malibu because, well, why not. There's hardly anything to be critical of because everyone's there for the simple rustic food that comes in waves and covers the tables while waiters ignite blocks of cheese and yell "Opa!" for the crowd. Therefore, it's all pretty straightforward and generous:
It's a summer night in Malibu and except for the presence of a valet station around the corner, we could easily fool ourselves into thinking we're somewhere lively in the eastern Mediterranean. No ocean in sight, but the air is beachy-damp and tans and summer dresses are in evidence. Just once this summer, get away to Taverna Tony for an evening of eating and drinking that, except for the American-sized portions, replicates a taverna in Greece.No Britney or Mel sightings, no surfers beating paparazzi, and Tony gets one star just for being him. Today the "S." stands for "swish." [LAT]
ELSEWHERE: Metromix gets burnt ends and big ribs at Kansas City BBQ in NoHo; Food Marathon finds baby backs and garlicky okra at Baby Blues BBQ in Venice; LA.com does the basics at Delancey; Caroline gets a little gushy over Citizen Smith's half-off Monday, yes, with booze; Dig Lounge finds no real snap, but tasty dogs at Marty D's; Eating L.A. decides the Green Truck definitely trumps the roach coaches; an LAister likes everything about Beechwood but the homemade ketchup; Potatomato's tasting menu at Sona veered from " delightfully delicious to uninspiring."