Heck's Kitchen

Jonathan Gold sees beyond the smoke screen, make that TV screen, when it comes to Gordon Ramsay at the London West Hollywood: "But most of Ramsay’s food is not just timid but timid in a specifically Californian way, as if he were convinced that Angelenos were incapable of facing a meal without half a dozen raw-fish preparations seemingly inspired by an off-night at Koi, that the presence of the Jean-Georges Vongerichten–style dish of scallops with cauliflower at a handful of local restaurants means that he has to take a stab at it too, that half-hearted swipes at Mediterranean dishes (rabbit with tomato and basil, seafood stew with tortellini and chickpeas) and pan-Asian fare (Arctic char with dashi, honey- and soy-lacquered quail) were just what Californians have been pining for. (At least he’s paying attention.) The restaurant is in its opening days, and the workings of the kitchen are obviously going to improve, but as the mastermind behind Kitchen Nightmares, Ramsay might want to take a look at what’s happening in the restaurant that bears his name." [LAW]