Welcome back to the wacky rollercoaster ride that is the LA Times restaurant review. Last week, Leslie Brenner tore Gladstone's a new one and awarded it a "poor," which is less than no stars. This week, S. Irene Virbila is back with a three-star review of Vincenti, the Brentwood Italian resto the critic first reviewed seven years ago. According to her, wwners Maureen Vincenti, late Italian restaurateur Mauro Vincenti's widow, and chef Nicola Mastronardi are keeping things fresh:
Mastronardi is definitely on a roll. Maybe being a partner is what has made all the difference. He has a newfound confidence and his cooking is less prone to ups and downs. The execution is dead-on and when he wants to impress, he no longer runs straight to the fancy hotel repertoire, but comes up with something wonderfully rustic, or light, or ingeniously delicious. No question but that this is his kitchen and his cooking.Miss Irene gives props to everything, from the quail and grapes appetizer to handmade pastas and even the roast duck, but the Monday pizza nights might be the big winner. Vincenti triples, something we haven't seen for quite awhile. Today the "S." stands for "standbys." [LAT]
ELSEWHERE: Dig Lounge wishes Five Guys would bring their burgers closer to home; LAist gives SugarFISH and breakfast at LA Mill a whirl; Triplecreme hits Rush Street on day one; Metromix is more wowed by the decor than the food at Gordon Ramsay and Anisette; there's something to be said for the cakes at Susina Bakery.