Gold follows "one of the most underrated of Los Angeles chefs, the "Lauren Hill of American cuisine, to Nine Thirty at the W Hotel to find "food that swings." When Monique King's menu works, it's completely satisfying: "King’s dishes seem influenced by the pre-Katrina New Orleans restaurant cooking at places like Jacques-Imo or NOLA, huge assemblages of hearty, well-seared food that could probably be deconstructed into two or three courses apiece, but which at their best weave their own narratives, like discursive novels or epic poetry." [LAW]
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