Loteria Love

In his First Look column, Jonathan Gold waxes poetic about the new Loteria Grill in Hollywood, "the kind of restaurant you’d think there’d be dozens of by now." In additon to the chicharron de queso, crunchy toasted cheese you put in a tortilla or on tacos, there's the same stewed meats, aguas frescas, chilaquiles and huevos rancheros at the original, but it's better: "You may know this food from Lotería’s long-running stand in the Farmers Market — so far, the menus are pretty much the same — but there is a level of refinement in the cooking that was sometimes lacking at the older facility, and perhaps even more pleasure." [LAW]