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Week in Reviews

Jonathan Gold goes where no lover of Gudalajaran menudo should go: He tries the hemp-seed-crusted tofu salad and vegan pimento "cheese" sandwich at Akasha and likes it. In fact, for all the detractors of Akasha (which he says he understands), Gold seems fond of the restaurant in general: "While the kitchen’s commitment to organic, sustainable, certified, cruelty-free ingredients goes without saying, Richmond personally started eating meat when she began a weight-lifting regimen a couple of years ago, and her cooking is surprisingly sybaritic: skewered, curry-dusted grilled shrimp; a decent roast chicken with farro; killer sweet-potato fries and a big, juicy Heritage pork chop served on a potato-like slurry of mashed white beans." Just bring on the meat and onion rings and all will be fine. [LAW]