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First Look: SugarFISH

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With the assembly-line nature of Nozawa these days, J. Gold isn't surprised by the new franchise-worthy SugarFISH by Nozawa in Marina del Rey. Not that impressed either: "The yellowtail, salmon and albacore sushi are fine, made with decent-quality fish, molded over hot, loosely packed rice in the Nozawa fashion, but rather too fragile to pick up with chopsticks. The meager blue-crab roll and torotartare rolls are nowhere near the quality of the rolls Nozawa and his followers have educated us to expect. And the elapsed time between the second you sit down and the moment you are handed your check is about 15 minutes, 20 tops. Sugarfish is reasonably priced for sushi — menus run between about $20 and $40, with tax and tip included — but per minute, it may be one of the most expensive restaurants in town." [LAW]