Week in Reviews

As if on cue, Jonathan Gold gives his full attention to Anisette this week: "One goes to Anisette not to experience the new and revolutionary, one goes to be fed?There are the usual towering plateaux devoted to fresh shellfish from the icy seafood bar that dominates the restaurant's entrance, and another tiered platter laden instead with terrines, charcuterie and ripened cheese. The liver pâté is superb, almost a smooth, melting meat butter capped with a winey gelée and served in little mason jars. The onion soup is everything you might hope it would be, deep and sweet, annealed into its crock with a thick layer of cheese." Watching Alain Giraud walk in with farmer's market bounty seems to trump any of the inconsistencies. [LAW]