Ludo's Lavo

Former Los Angeles food critic-turned-Las Vegas food critic Max Jacobson has a turn at Lavo at the Palazzo. Of chef Ludovic Lefebvre's influence: "The menu is filled with little dishes you want to eat, and one or two that you may need to be talked into. Greek salad with a feta cheese mousse is ingredient driven and delicate...Wacky fare like Reuben-stuffed knish sliders, done as a trio of sliders, and caramelized salmon with honey, orange, and vadouvan, a south Indian spice mixture, both turn out to be super." What really gets us is his use of the word "gastropub" to describe a 300-seat restaurant. [Gourmet]