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Week in Reviews: XIV Doubles, Cole's, Pann's, More Elsewhere

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Miss Irene shows some claws with her review of the Michael Mina/SBE "social dining" experiment known as XIV. The concept of tasting menu-but-not-tasting menu, the flurry of service, the haunted house Starck design, the mixed crowd (we even get a little fashion police thrown in)---she's not loving it all. To have the whole table order the same thing can backfire:

Dish after dish is introduced to our table. "Are we almost done?" asks the formerly greedy diner plaintively. "Aren't we just one or two from the end?" Hate to tell him, but I think we're just halfway through. It all started out so well too. But with a couple of exceptions, each time I ate at XIV, the food seemed to falter the further into the menu we got. The lineup also becomes monotonous.
There are some dishes she loves (even if it's all "precious)), and the kitchen gets credit for spot-on execution; but she isn't wowed by the concept, the "wacky format." XIV gets two stars. Today the "S." stands for "slightly biting." [LAT]

ELSEWHERE: Eating L.A. gives the new Cole's a test drive; LAist has a damn good grilled cheese at Laurel Tavern; Franklin Avenue finds Pann's good enough when he's near LAX; the Rundown has basics on Salut Wine Bar in Santa Monica; and road trip: Potatomato did breakfast at Citron at the Viceroy Palm Springs.

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