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Week in Reviews

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The S. Bomb drops two stars on Jason Travi's Fraiche follow-up, Riva. The decor isn't the thing, but no matter. Mrs. Virbila: "Fortunately, the food is distraction enough. Start with either a couple of crudo dishes to share, or an appetizer salad. The creamy burrata with roasted sweet peppers is as good as anywhere. There's a decent roasted beet salad, this one with aged goat cheese and pistachios, but my favorite is the luscious Hachiya persimmon paired with thin ribbons of the smoky raw-cured ham speck. The ham's sweetness against the tart persimmon is perfect." NB: Pizza needs work, but the words 'Mozza' and 'closing in' were used. [LAT]