Marche's Soulful Cooking Earns 2.5 Stars

Marche opened just over two months ago and already SIV is filing her 2.5 star review. Chef and partner Gary Menes has been on the move and SIV clearly fancies him at his newest post in Sherman Oaks. Decor-wise not much has changed since Max, but SIV still writes:

"Marché feels like a cozy neighborhood boîte (complete with full bar at the back). Couples are seated at high-backed leather banquettes, larger tables in an alcove at the back. Mirrors are alternated with framed blackboards on the walls. If you like your restaurants with soul, this one has it."

Marche seems to have borrowed menu ideas from Menes' previous post at Palate in Glendale, though no negativity ensues since "some of the best cooking [of] his career" was done at there. And while even Sher seems a bit tired of the small plates idea, she doesn't fault Marche for doing the cliche well. The charcuterie, duck and pork rillettes and especially the house-made bread impress, in addition to the local calamari and the "fantastic" Piedmontese beef. Ah, but this isn't all fun and games.

"Changing the menu so frequently means a few missteps. Gnocchi are heavy and gummy. Lamb one night is overcooked and almost mealy, and pork belly is inexplicably dull." Everyone knows Sher loves her wine and here she gives Marche's "exceptionally appealing wine list" the high five both on price and on choice of "unusually captivating" wines. Desserts are all solid and in closing SIV would like to say " if [you] take the trouble to seek out this new restaurant, [you] will discover some wonderfully soulful cooking on the boulevard." [LAT]

THE ELSEWHERE: Gourmet Pigs explains crispy tripas at Rambo's Taco Truck, OCW takes a bite at Javier's Cantina, Mmm-Yoso!!! treks to Garden Grove for Vientiane Thai Laos, Eating LA eats dumplings at Lunasia, and LAmag samples Peruvian at Mo-Chica.

Marche

13355 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, CA, 91423